In between completing graduate school and starting the next chapter of my professional life, my dad and I took a drive along Route 66 from Illinois to California. The trip was always one on my bucket list, and I finally had some time to spend 10 days driving the Mother Road. This was a journey of nostalgia, reflection, and discovery for me. The goal was to see as much of the country as possible and focus on the spaces in between the large population centers.
Historically, Route 66 was a major highway that connected communities and played an important role in American’s development. The road has a deep set of real histories, but today the road is dotted with entrepreneurs hawking Americana nostalgia. Some towns are largely abandoned, yet some businesses clung on or have been revitalized by a new generation of dreamers. Other towns managed to grow and thrived. Each region contained a unique and different set of people and environments, yet a common theme emerged. Every place had someone who wanted you to know their name.
Illinois
Anyone who has travelled with me knows that I can get very hangry when my gas tank hits empty. Food is an important part of any of my journeys and this trip was no different. Yet, my stomach can only handle so many hamburgers and fries at greasy spoons. So I was pleasantly surprised when I arrived at the Ariston Cafe.
The lights were dim as we walked in, but the welcome was warm. Our waitress Cyndi guided us to our booth where we settled in to enjoy a classic dining experience. Most of the top was filled with locals, cracking jokes and swapping stories with the staff. The sandwiches and salad bar was excellent, but Cyndi was the best waitress I’ve ever had: wisecracking jokes, real conversation about the town, and the dessert tray brought out right on cue. She was one of many people we would meet along the way, building a life along the mother road.
Missouri
His voice boomed from the porch of the hut next to the resurrected gas station: “Come on up, come on up: Welcome to Mizzzzz-urrr-aaah!” George’s fore bearers had the foresight to establish a gas station on the edge of their farm near where the government was building a new highway many years ago. The pumps have ceased dispensing refined dinosaurs, but a new business has sprouted hawking trinkets to contemporary travelers: Gary’s Gay Parita. The garage now serves partly as a museum and partly as a space for George to restore vintage cars. He seemed quite content to sit on his porch, scour the internet for car parts, and visit with the travelers as they pass through.
Kansas
Most travelers pass through, stop, take some photos, and keep going. Aaron was passing through, stopped, and never left. When he stopped at a derelict service station in Galena, he saw a for sale sign and sensed an opportunity to build something new and wonderful. After buying the building, he relocated from California and began to restore the structure piece by piece. Hard work and love transformed the restored building into Gearhead Curios. Unlike previous generations who headed West to California from the midwest seeking a better life, Aaron found opportunity in a little slice of Kansas.
When we checked into our hotel that night, the clerk commented on the area code for my phone number. “Oh, 626, like Experiment 626 from Lilo & Stitch!” I replied, “Ah, yes… that’s one of my favorite modern Disney moves.” He blinked at me and exclaimed: “Sir, that move is from 2002, I would not call it modern.” I guess since my childhood was 20 years ago, I am another relic rusting alongside the road…
Oklahoma
Driving through Oklahoma today, it’s hard to reconcile the communities today with the stereotypes propagated by The Grapes of Wrath. Yes, the land is flat, yet the communities are strong. Just outside Catoosa, a giant Blue Whale sits serenely in a pond. This giant sculpture was originally built by Hugh Davis as an anniversary gift to his wife Zelta in the early 1970’s. The whale, with its built in diving boards, quickly became a gathering point for local children and become part of the community. Today, the children no longer swim in the pond, but people still come to enjoy the park. The only people there when Dad & I arrived were two lovers who probably would have preferred some privacy. We did not linger long; yet as we left, two SUV’s packed with children arrived to enjoy the space. Such is love.
Texas
In high school, I carpooled with one friend who had extended family that sent her a pecan pie one holiday season. (I think the family was in Texas, but I’m not 100% sure.) I never had a slice of pie that compared until I stepped into the Midpoint Cafe in Adrian. The rest of the food was not that memorable, but the pie was delicious.
New Mexico
We arrived in Tucumcari earlier than we could check in to our motel, so we decided to check out the local museums. Of course, we headed first to the depot and learned that it was Free Museum Day! Though I was the oldest kid in the room, we decided to participate in the community scavenger hunt. After exploring the Railroad Museum and the Historical Museum, we checked into our hotel: The Road Runner Lodge. The proprietor David was extremely friendly and the accompanies capture a lovely 60’s vibe. When we opened the door to our room, we were greeted by some groovy music and moon pies. As the sunset, I ventured out with my camera to capture some of the neon signs. Later that evening, we gathered around the fire with the other guests and David to chat the evening away.
Arizona
In the Painted Desert Inn of the Petrified Forest National Park, I met “Jake Silversmith”, a highly skilled Navajo artisan. I enjoyed talking to Jake, learning about his craft and Navajo traditions. I loved his artwork, but could not afford to buy a nearly $2,000 belt. Arizona included many curiosities including the Jack Rabbit Trading Post, Standing on the Corner Park, and the donkey-infested city of Oatman, yet the quality of the souvenirs paled in comparison to the Jakes’s Art. I still can’t tell whether the most beautiful part of this state was the conversations, the people, or the landscape.
California
Home is where the heart is, I was happy to return home to California at the end of this trip. I loved the journey: meeting the people and seeing the different locations. Yet, I always get this feeling when I return to California. I can’t really describe it, but I can’t see myself living anywhere else. I love visiting other places, but I am in love with the Golden State.
As this trip is fading into the rearview mirror, the pictures will help me remember the places. Yet, I want to remember the people: Cyndi, George, Aaron, The Lovers at the Whale, David, and Jake. They are the people keeping the Route 66 myths alive. In between the curio shops and partially abandoned towns, there is a history of people. And people are what make places what they are.
